Saturday, 24 September 2011
Most of the town came to watch
I'm sure, out of the 1000 people in Aurukun, the majority were there yesterday afternoon...All dressed in the House Opening colours - skirts for the ladies made locally (Daniel and I did a bit of sewing up at the Sewing Centre to get them all done), and the young man's (who's house was opened) favourite colour was blue. His totem, the hammer head shart (Thoyo) and clan details all printed on the shirts. It looked incredible to see a sea of blue around the crowd...
Aunty Hersey with her grandson
Hersey, also a great fisherwoman, showed us the finer points of casting a line (which I still have yet to master).
A special local tradition - House Opening in Aurukun
First, it's worth explaining what little I know of the cultural side of the House Opening. We had been told how lucky we were to have a House Opening happening whilst we were here, and to make sure we went along. How right everyone was.
When a person dies in Aurukun, the family close the house they lived in, for anywhere between 6 months to 3 years. Everything they touched is removed (I think) and replaced eventually, and no one enters the house during that time. The last place they visited is also off limits - shown by boundaries of pink string etc if it's land. therefore, we were told, if there is pink or coloured rope/string around, don't go into that area.
Also, they do not speak that persons name until they have the 'name ceremony' which allows their name to spoken. Interestingly, this applies to anyone else in the community with the same or similar sounding name. You must use the name "Tarpitch" when referring to anyone of that name. If you have that name you become "Tarpitch Blah Blah". Even on school assignments or forms that need to be filled out etc.
So a House Opening is a big celebration, re-opening the house of the person that passed away, the house is decorated, people wear special clothing, and there is dancing and feasting and ceremonies. It frees their spirit to move on. This house opening was particularly sad due to the age of the person - he was a young 18 year old boy killed in a car accident on his way home here (he was a boarder at school in Brisbane). And, his school mates are all staying here in the guesthouse for the event.
Logistically, I had heard it started at 3, or 2, or 4 or 5pm. We got there at 3, just to be sure. Preparation was all still happening. Decorations were being finalised on the outside, balloons and streamers going up. The house looked amazing.
A pit was dug for the "kup maurie" - a fire pit to roast all the food (they killed a bullock, a wild boar, sea turtles and a dugong for the meal). This is slow cooking method, where they have a pit. hot fire ashes and then put the food in - cover it up and let it cook. I reckon it was after 4pm when it started.
The local dancers were amazing. There were all different types of traditional dance and costumes, from painted bodies and grass skirts to hula from the islanders. And everything in between. There are very specific rituals and dances that are only performed at House Openings. I only wish I could understand the language to know each ones significance and meaning.
What a privilege to be able to be able to be sit on the sidelines and just watch. It's not like it's a tourist performance, these are local normal ceremonies. An huge amount of effort goes into the dancing and the costumes. Needless to say, I have lots of video, but may just go with a few photo's here.
It was a really moving event. Hopefully a tradition they can keep going in the future, as they have until now.
Beautiful decorations on and around the house.
Appow
When a person dies in Aurukun, the family close the house they lived in, for anywhere between 6 months to 3 years. Everything they touched is removed (I think) and replaced eventually, and no one enters the house during that time. The last place they visited is also off limits - shown by boundaries of pink string etc if it's land. therefore, we were told, if there is pink or coloured rope/string around, don't go into that area.
Also, they do not speak that persons name until they have the 'name ceremony' which allows their name to spoken. Interestingly, this applies to anyone else in the community with the same or similar sounding name. You must use the name "Tarpitch" when referring to anyone of that name. If you have that name you become "Tarpitch Blah Blah". Even on school assignments or forms that need to be filled out etc.
So a House Opening is a big celebration, re-opening the house of the person that passed away, the house is decorated, people wear special clothing, and there is dancing and feasting and ceremonies. It frees their spirit to move on. This house opening was particularly sad due to the age of the person - he was a young 18 year old boy killed in a car accident on his way home here (he was a boarder at school in Brisbane). And, his school mates are all staying here in the guesthouse for the event.
Logistically, I had heard it started at 3, or 2, or 4 or 5pm. We got there at 3, just to be sure. Preparation was all still happening. Decorations were being finalised on the outside, balloons and streamers going up. The house looked amazing.
A pit was dug for the "kup maurie" - a fire pit to roast all the food (they killed a bullock, a wild boar, sea turtles and a dugong for the meal). This is slow cooking method, where they have a pit. hot fire ashes and then put the food in - cover it up and let it cook. I reckon it was after 4pm when it started.
The local dancers were amazing. There were all different types of traditional dance and costumes, from painted bodies and grass skirts to hula from the islanders. And everything in between. There are very specific rituals and dances that are only performed at House Openings. I only wish I could understand the language to know each ones significance and meaning.
What a privilege to be able to be able to be sit on the sidelines and just watch. It's not like it's a tourist performance, these are local normal ceremonies. An huge amount of effort goes into the dancing and the costumes. Needless to say, I have lots of video, but may just go with a few photo's here.
It was a really moving event. Hopefully a tradition they can keep going in the future, as they have until now.
Beautiful decorations on and around the house.
Appow
Thursday, 22 September 2011
Quiet week so far
Since we got back from the tip on Sunday evening, it's been just work. No fishing - the car gets locked in the police yard to keep teenagers away from the temptation of breaking in and just doing some fun damage!
We had the elderly local couple for dinner last night, the pancakes are really the big hit. We heard some great stories and enjoyed catching up (they are the ones who take us fishing and laugh at how bad the casting is).
Only three more working days here in Aurukun. Working to get the Tourism Plan complete, for first draft review. That way, will have enough time for any revisions or additions. Most likely to be subtractions though, it's become a monster - think it's 60 pages now. Time to cull one thinks.
Well, how do you write a master plan for a tourism venture, for over 750,000 hectares of land, and as yet no tourists. Not sure there are any amenities out there yet, and no accommodation at this point. So, it's starting from scratch. And, no one in Aurukun has any tourism experience. So, the plan has grown a little more than I expected, thank goodness for the old Executive Summary.
It's been really interesting researching it, finding all about wild boar shooting, and not to mention those who like to holiday with a crossbow in hand, stalking scrub bulls. Sounds like just the holiday - think those are specialist options. I like the idea of a spot of barra fishing (not a convert necessarily, but it can be fun for an hour or so), and up here they have "May At" - or Sugar Bag honey. It's gathered from the wild bees (that don't have stingers!!!!!) and apparently has more medicinal qualities than the old yesterdays-news New Zealand manuka honey. Go the Aurukun bees...
So, what kind of adventure holiday would I design for me? Surely some of the May At. I'd like to try the weaving, Aurukun women are renown for their weaving. I'm looking forward to seeing the baskets on Saturday at the House Opening, where they traditionally decorate. I'd do a spot of fishing for sure.
And touring the waterways, Aurukun is at the confluence of three major rivers so it's a very water focused community. They eat a lot of fish that they catch themselves, catfish, barramundi, queenfish, bream, um and some others I forget. I'd go for a damper making masterchef extravaganza for sure. Love a bit of damper made in the fire. So good. We are going out damper making with Hersey and Kenlock hopefully before we go next week. The stories are worth hearing too - Cape Keerweer, were the Dutch landed (apparently first Europeans to set foot in or on the country). Of course, behaved as sailors did a few centuries ago and were chased off by the local guys, for good reason by all accounts. There is also the volunteer stuff, GPSing the turtle nests in season, or finding, GPSing and cleaning up the Ghostnets - now there's something worth doing.
So, hopefully one day, I'll see all manner of tours of the Wik lands available one day and may just have to fly back and try one out. It's a bit of a way off yet, they have the cattle plan to start with, and the town needs some more accommodation, which is all coming.
That's all the fun and games for this week. Daniel and I have played a bit of basketball after work but not a lot of exercise to be had - 34 degrees today. hmmmm. Coffee detox has gone well, at least no latte bingeing being done.
Sad we are heading into the final week, it's flown. Although, will be happy to get home and not wear the same clothes for weeks on end.
Appow
S
We had the elderly local couple for dinner last night, the pancakes are really the big hit. We heard some great stories and enjoyed catching up (they are the ones who take us fishing and laugh at how bad the casting is).
Only three more working days here in Aurukun. Working to get the Tourism Plan complete, for first draft review. That way, will have enough time for any revisions or additions. Most likely to be subtractions though, it's become a monster - think it's 60 pages now. Time to cull one thinks.
Well, how do you write a master plan for a tourism venture, for over 750,000 hectares of land, and as yet no tourists. Not sure there are any amenities out there yet, and no accommodation at this point. So, it's starting from scratch. And, no one in Aurukun has any tourism experience. So, the plan has grown a little more than I expected, thank goodness for the old Executive Summary.
It's been really interesting researching it, finding all about wild boar shooting, and not to mention those who like to holiday with a crossbow in hand, stalking scrub bulls. Sounds like just the holiday - think those are specialist options. I like the idea of a spot of barra fishing (not a convert necessarily, but it can be fun for an hour or so), and up here they have "May At" - or Sugar Bag honey. It's gathered from the wild bees (that don't have stingers!!!!!) and apparently has more medicinal qualities than the old yesterdays-news New Zealand manuka honey. Go the Aurukun bees...
So, what kind of adventure holiday would I design for me? Surely some of the May At. I'd like to try the weaving, Aurukun women are renown for their weaving. I'm looking forward to seeing the baskets on Saturday at the House Opening, where they traditionally decorate. I'd do a spot of fishing for sure.
And touring the waterways, Aurukun is at the confluence of three major rivers so it's a very water focused community. They eat a lot of fish that they catch themselves, catfish, barramundi, queenfish, bream, um and some others I forget. I'd go for a damper making masterchef extravaganza for sure. Love a bit of damper made in the fire. So good. We are going out damper making with Hersey and Kenlock hopefully before we go next week. The stories are worth hearing too - Cape Keerweer, were the Dutch landed (apparently first Europeans to set foot in or on the country). Of course, behaved as sailors did a few centuries ago and were chased off by the local guys, for good reason by all accounts. There is also the volunteer stuff, GPSing the turtle nests in season, or finding, GPSing and cleaning up the Ghostnets - now there's something worth doing.
So, hopefully one day, I'll see all manner of tours of the Wik lands available one day and may just have to fly back and try one out. It's a bit of a way off yet, they have the cattle plan to start with, and the town needs some more accommodation, which is all coming.
That's all the fun and games for this week. Daniel and I have played a bit of basketball after work but not a lot of exercise to be had - 34 degrees today. hmmmm. Coffee detox has gone well, at least no latte bingeing being done.
Sad we are heading into the final week, it's flown. Although, will be happy to get home and not wear the same clothes for weeks on end.
Appow
S
Sunday, 18 September 2011
View from Loyalty Beach cabins
It's paradise up there - pity you can't swim, there are crocs and stingers in the water apparently, although we did see heaps of children swimming near the pier in Seisa.. hmmmm
Whirlwind trip to the tip
Well, we managed to do over 1000km of corrugated, bumpy, bauxite-driving-on-marbles roads up to Bamaga (biggest town up in the very top of Qld). We drove most of the day on Friday, meeting other secondees up there (they had to work up there so spend most of the week there). We had a large funeral in town on the Friday, and business basically comes to a standstill when that happens. No meetings are held - things close - so Friday we figured to head out of town early. We also thought the "cease fire" - ie no music late, very little fighting and sly grog related activities, would ramp up after the 'sorry business' time was over.
It was interesting on the roads. We were really careful driving, it's all dirt road other than a few km of bitumen every now and again. It's pretty crazy.
We had a whirlwind race around the northern most point in Australia, saw all the sites, bought crocodile souvenirs - yes, it's mandatory, and contemplated a t-shirt with very funny croc hunting-four wheel driving - huntin - fishin - type cartoons, yes, they are very funny and original I know...except every man, woman, child and pet seem to be wearing them up there. Managed to refrain.
It was great to be somewhere with a cafe again - there isn't one in Aurukun. And a real restaurant - yep, you guessed it. Pity we could only stay there a day, Bamaga, Seisa, Loyalty Beach (we stayed right on the beach in cabins) are all beautiful. We checked out Pundsand Bay, where the tourist operation is one we wanted to review for the plan we are doing here, and also a cattle station on the way up looks like a good set up for one part of the APN program.
We are back into it tomorrow - only 7 more working days up here, and heaps to get done. Things should get back to normal now the big funeral has happened.
Photo's follow
Appow
It was interesting on the roads. We were really careful driving, it's all dirt road other than a few km of bitumen every now and again. It's pretty crazy.
We had a whirlwind race around the northern most point in Australia, saw all the sites, bought crocodile souvenirs - yes, it's mandatory, and contemplated a t-shirt with very funny croc hunting-four wheel driving - huntin - fishin - type cartoons, yes, they are very funny and original I know...except every man, woman, child and pet seem to be wearing them up there. Managed to refrain.
It was great to be somewhere with a cafe again - there isn't one in Aurukun. And a real restaurant - yep, you guessed it. Pity we could only stay there a day, Bamaga, Seisa, Loyalty Beach (we stayed right on the beach in cabins) are all beautiful. We checked out Pundsand Bay, where the tourist operation is one we wanted to review for the plan we are doing here, and also a cattle station on the way up looks like a good set up for one part of the APN program.
We are back into it tomorrow - only 7 more working days up here, and heaps to get done. Things should get back to normal now the big funeral has happened.
Photo's follow
Appow
Wednesday, 14 September 2011
Quiet day in the office, then fishing time!!!
Last couple of days have been uneventful. We've been head down, working on the plans and project. We've been working out of the Local Projects Office, where the state and federal govt employees go - both permanently based here and the visitors. They are a really good bunch of people there, and it's easier to get work done there, than in the kitchen at the guest house (which is the only place with a reasonably accessible powerpoint unless one wants to spend the day on the laptop in the bathroom - hmmm not so much)...
We met the CEO of the local council today and got some great insights into what's planned for the area. They are the real key people in the community, the mayor is a local indigenous Aurukunian, as is the Deputy Mayor. They all work pretty well to get stuff done, in a remote community, where no rates are paid (due to the land tenure/ownership structures). It's all really fascinating to get some understanding of all the politics, cultural objectives, stakeholders etc etc.
Our meeting with the Council went really late so we were late picking up our fishing buddies to get out to Oban - about 5km north of Aurukun. Daniel and I religiously threw out a line and caught loads...of seaweed. Hersey and Kenlock (they took us last time) caught a few 'grunters' - we found out why they are called that. It's the noise they make out of the water. Ick. This time we also had Dallas (their daughter who is a couple of years younger than me), and her daughter Delilah. They didn't have much luck either on the fishing front so it wasn't just the unlucky white folk who can't cast a decent distance with the hand line. I did do a very efficient "Bait Bucket Biatch" - everyone has a role to play :-) Mobile bait delivery is an important service when there are a few fishermen/women.
Now waiting for our dinner to cook in the communal kitchen. We get to meet lots of great people travelling through, staying here. They are from all over, doing really interesting stuff. Learnt about Ghost Nets and the programs in place to clean up our waterways. Learnt about brumbies, cattle stations and helicopter mustering techniques (always useful).
We are heading up to the top of the Cape on the weekend. Lots of hours of driving but worth doing since we are so close.
Anyhoo, that's the latest and greatest from Aurukun
appow
We met the CEO of the local council today and got some great insights into what's planned for the area. They are the real key people in the community, the mayor is a local indigenous Aurukunian, as is the Deputy Mayor. They all work pretty well to get stuff done, in a remote community, where no rates are paid (due to the land tenure/ownership structures). It's all really fascinating to get some understanding of all the politics, cultural objectives, stakeholders etc etc.
Our meeting with the Council went really late so we were late picking up our fishing buddies to get out to Oban - about 5km north of Aurukun. Daniel and I religiously threw out a line and caught loads...of seaweed. Hersey and Kenlock (they took us last time) caught a few 'grunters' - we found out why they are called that. It's the noise they make out of the water. Ick. This time we also had Dallas (their daughter who is a couple of years younger than me), and her daughter Delilah. They didn't have much luck either on the fishing front so it wasn't just the unlucky white folk who can't cast a decent distance with the hand line. I did do a very efficient "Bait Bucket Biatch" - everyone has a role to play :-) Mobile bait delivery is an important service when there are a few fishermen/women.
Now waiting for our dinner to cook in the communal kitchen. We get to meet lots of great people travelling through, staying here. They are from all over, doing really interesting stuff. Learnt about Ghost Nets and the programs in place to clean up our waterways. Learnt about brumbies, cattle stations and helicopter mustering techniques (always useful).
We are heading up to the top of the Cape on the weekend. Lots of hours of driving but worth doing since we are so close.
Anyhoo, that's the latest and greatest from Aurukun
appow
Monday, 12 September 2011
Obligatory sunset shot
Well, technically a sunrise shot! Smokey sunrise, with fires burning all night across the Love River in the APN homelands. And yes, was awake for sunrise. It was the crocodiles that woke me :-)
Love River camp - oyster hunt is successful
Everyone enjoying the fruits of the oyster hunt - tap tap tapping to get those oysters out of the shells...
A weekend out on station...
So, a weekend camping at an outstation...
Our key stakeholder is the CEO (and part of the traditional land owners for the Aurukun area. He is a man with lots and lots of demands on his time, we've been trying to catch up with him for around a week. Bruce is a young local guy, who's Mum lives here, and Dad is a European guy now living in Canberra. He's really leading some changes for the local people, economy, culture, environment - the lot really.
So, getting time with him is a bit "get in line". He finally got back to country late on Friday and has Turtle Camp happening with his Ranger team, so went straight out there. Hence we had the option to have our meeting out bush, so we jumped at the chance.
Saturday we were ready early, and waited on rangers to pick us up for the boat ride out to our meeting point. From there, a pick up and some serious outback 4WD to Emu Foot - one of the outstations. We had a total of about 15 people out there, sleeping in tents, in swags in the open and all needing food. The rangers found a wild boar, which was then slaughtered and bits thrown onto the barbie (rest given to a local family in town). It was a pretty tough old piggie...
You may ask about amenities, at the outstation there was an old water tank and a tap with running water - luxury. No toilet, no shower. Nice.
Sunday we packed up camp and headed off to the Love River. There was lots of fishing going on, some serious catfish were caught using crabs from shells on shore, and there are natural oysters everywhere. I didn't partake of those, but Daniel had a go at the slimy grey slugs!!! Ughhhh.
Quiet arvo yesterday waiting for the rangers to set a few fires (clearing land for wet season) however they were not able to make it through fires to get to our camp, so we just settled in for the evening and all met back in Aurukun today. There was some slight concern around salt water crocs - yep - so I was sure all night I could here them creeping up on my tent. They were there!!!!!! :-)
We managed to get some really good time with Bruce (APN project) today and we have heaps of work to get done.
All the stuff from last week is coming through to, so it's action stations. And more people to meet yet.
Enjoying being part of a totally different culture. It's like being in a different country, everyone speaking a different language, eating different foods, in a different way. It's pretty cool.
Will add some photos.
Appow
Our key stakeholder is the CEO (and part of the traditional land owners for the Aurukun area. He is a man with lots and lots of demands on his time, we've been trying to catch up with him for around a week. Bruce is a young local guy, who's Mum lives here, and Dad is a European guy now living in Canberra. He's really leading some changes for the local people, economy, culture, environment - the lot really.
So, getting time with him is a bit "get in line". He finally got back to country late on Friday and has Turtle Camp happening with his Ranger team, so went straight out there. Hence we had the option to have our meeting out bush, so we jumped at the chance.
Saturday we were ready early, and waited on rangers to pick us up for the boat ride out to our meeting point. From there, a pick up and some serious outback 4WD to Emu Foot - one of the outstations. We had a total of about 15 people out there, sleeping in tents, in swags in the open and all needing food. The rangers found a wild boar, which was then slaughtered and bits thrown onto the barbie (rest given to a local family in town). It was a pretty tough old piggie...
You may ask about amenities, at the outstation there was an old water tank and a tap with running water - luxury. No toilet, no shower. Nice.
Sunday we packed up camp and headed off to the Love River. There was lots of fishing going on, some serious catfish were caught using crabs from shells on shore, and there are natural oysters everywhere. I didn't partake of those, but Daniel had a go at the slimy grey slugs!!! Ughhhh.
Quiet arvo yesterday waiting for the rangers to set a few fires (clearing land for wet season) however they were not able to make it through fires to get to our camp, so we just settled in for the evening and all met back in Aurukun today. There was some slight concern around salt water crocs - yep - so I was sure all night I could here them creeping up on my tent. They were there!!!!!! :-)
We managed to get some really good time with Bruce (APN project) today and we have heaps of work to get done.
All the stuff from last week is coming through to, so it's action stations. And more people to meet yet.
Enjoying being part of a totally different culture. It's like being in a different country, everyone speaking a different language, eating different foods, in a different way. It's pretty cool.
Will add some photos.
Appow
Thursday, 8 September 2011
It's a slightly bigger catfish!!!!
Daniel finally catches something too - another catfish. Kenlock caught a small stingray which we threw back, Hersey caught a trevally, and a queen fish. They fish most days for their dinner.
We learnt how to avoid the poisonous spines on the catfish...
We learnt how to avoid the poisonous spines on the catfish...
It's a catfish!!!!
Fishing after work...this is little Claudia, the great grand daughter of Hersey and Kenlock (pictured at the back) Claudia showed us how to use the cast net to get bait (little mullet) and Hersey showed us how to get a decent cast out to catch something.
End of the first week...
It's Friday. Not sure how we got here so fast, but time is flying.
We are waiting on our key project stakeholder to arrive back from Cairns as he's been held up there. We'll be catching up with him and that project over the weekend, maybe make back some time.
In terms of what that means? Tomorrow morning we are getting picked up by one of the Rangers (Robert who we just met today coincidentally, happens to be our friends Hersey and Kenlock's daughter's partner) at 9am, then head out to the APN outstation for another two days of camping in a swag. We'll combine our briefing sessions with experiencing what the traditional land owners have to offer, see what their plans are and just get a feel for the place. There are tourist operators looking at packages (talking to them maybe next week to potentially put together a plan for them), there is a marketing plan, tourism plan, cattle station plan, ecological plan, ranger plan - all these are in the pipeline. We will work with Bruce (director of APN) to prioritise which of these we tackle first. There has been a few secondees before us, who have a cattle station viability model (which is apparently excellent), the online marketing briefs (see http://www.apncapeyork.org/ which they've just launched).
In the meantime, we have met with a variety of different people in town, discussing issues and opportunities with programs, how we can leverage the govt options available (there is federal, state and local council initiatives to look at) and work out how we can help some locals move further towards their own business.
This is all done in their Aurukun time, and generally we try about three times to get a meeting. We go with the flow and have a few options up our sleeve for next person to talk to.
Apres work - can't say that boredom is an issue, far from it. Haven't even turned on the tv, so the rest of the world has disappeared for a while.
Last evening we went to the local basketball court (half a block away happily) to have a run around. We lasted about 30 mins playing a bit of one-on-one before we had about 10 kids all playing with us. We finally had to pull the pin about 7.30pm, with lots of complaints and "are you playing tomorrow" questions...lots of fun.
Right now, as everything shuts up shop for lunch, a good chance to catch up on things back at the "office". Need to get off to our next meeting, where we are discussing expansion options with a local couples small trucking company.
Still hot and dusty.
Appow
S
We are waiting on our key project stakeholder to arrive back from Cairns as he's been held up there. We'll be catching up with him and that project over the weekend, maybe make back some time.
In terms of what that means? Tomorrow morning we are getting picked up by one of the Rangers (Robert who we just met today coincidentally, happens to be our friends Hersey and Kenlock's daughter's partner) at 9am, then head out to the APN outstation for another two days of camping in a swag. We'll combine our briefing sessions with experiencing what the traditional land owners have to offer, see what their plans are and just get a feel for the place. There are tourist operators looking at packages (talking to them maybe next week to potentially put together a plan for them), there is a marketing plan, tourism plan, cattle station plan, ecological plan, ranger plan - all these are in the pipeline. We will work with Bruce (director of APN) to prioritise which of these we tackle first. There has been a few secondees before us, who have a cattle station viability model (which is apparently excellent), the online marketing briefs (see http://www.apncapeyork.org/ which they've just launched).
In the meantime, we have met with a variety of different people in town, discussing issues and opportunities with programs, how we can leverage the govt options available (there is federal, state and local council initiatives to look at) and work out how we can help some locals move further towards their own business.
This is all done in their Aurukun time, and generally we try about three times to get a meeting. We go with the flow and have a few options up our sleeve for next person to talk to.
Apres work - can't say that boredom is an issue, far from it. Haven't even turned on the tv, so the rest of the world has disappeared for a while.
Last evening we went to the local basketball court (half a block away happily) to have a run around. We lasted about 30 mins playing a bit of one-on-one before we had about 10 kids all playing with us. We finally had to pull the pin about 7.30pm, with lots of complaints and "are you playing tomorrow" questions...lots of fun.
Right now, as everything shuts up shop for lunch, a good chance to catch up on things back at the "office". Need to get off to our next meeting, where we are discussing expansion options with a local couples small trucking company.
Still hot and dusty.
Appow
S
Tuesday, 6 September 2011
Archer River camp
Camping on the side of the Archer River. It rained half the night...yep, fun in a swag! It was the most beautiful spot, was well worth it.
Normanby Station overnight
Us camping out at Normanby Station, near Hope Vale. There's more swags around the other side of the house, near the fire.
Where do I start?
Long update - it's been a week...time is flying!
Have finally arrived in Aurukun and settled in at the Aurukun Guest House. It's run by the council and in a great spot across the road from the shop (there is only one) and for those who thought it would be rough and ready - quite the opposite. Very comfortable, very clean and it's all pretty good so far.
We were extremely happy to see a washing machine after three days in a swag, with red dust from head to toe. Add to that a day in a backpackers inCape Tribulation and we were feeling pretty grotty.
We leftCairns in convoy (9 4wd's in total) - there was around 26 of us I think. We had all the guys from Cairns , a few gals from FACSIA (think that's the correct acronym) and of course Rose and Vit who are the organisers of the program. What a job! Like herding cats. Trying to get that many cars, that many people, that much food - drinks (no booze in Cape York for us) - bedding - equipment - radios - water blah blah...it's not easy managing that many people with a camp fire and a billy!
We camped (in a swag - yes on the ground just covered in canvas!!!!) for the first night in a place called "Billy Boil". This belongs to traditional land owners who are the first family to build their own place with help from the organisation. It's going to be a gorgeous open plan place - miles from anywhere, but they cut all their own trees, cut their own timber and then build the house. It's part of an initiative called "Owner Builder" where the organisation assist with the loan of a timber saw mill (portable) and other stuff, and then the family and volunteers build the house. Doreen and Laurie Hart (brother and sister) let us use their half finished deck to sleep on (much nicer than the dusty ground)...Frankie and Robbie Deemal also kept us company for the evening and also entertained with a couple of guitars - and a few old favourites kept many belting out a tune late into the night.
From there, we headed for the Normanby Station, where the Harrigan family provided their amazing hospitality. Rose and Ron Harrigan and their family took us on a special outing to some old traditional sacred land, where there people lived for centuries. We heard many old stories, and really got to understand how important their customs and maintaining both these and their language is.
Pando Harrigan (son) and another member of their band The Roadtrippers (apparently very well known up here in the Cape - a bit Paul Kelly, a bit Midnight Oil and a little bit country) put on an outdoor performance for us - it was pretty hard to beat. And another night under the stars...
But wait, there's more. Up and organised early, we (remotely located folk) headed to Coen. The convoy now down to three cars. Two secondees (Westpacers too)Sandy and Gen were staying in Coen, Daniel and I continuing to Aurukun. We left Normanby around 9am ish, and arrived in Coen around 3pm. Girls decided another night in a swag was too good to turn down, so they came with us (about an hours drive) further up the road to the Archer River . We camped on the side of the river (yes fresh water croc marks were seen near the lagoon up river a little - however they are not consumers of humans, only fish. We all made it out alive next morning! A little wet - thank goodness we got to experience all the joys of sleeping under the stars, a good soaking of rain added that something extra! It was fine - swag kept me warm and dry (Daniel not quite so lucky, he wet the bed...so to speak).
The Coen ladies headed back the next morning after a brekkie at the Archer River Roadhouse (we ate a lot of burgers on this trip – they all make good burgers!!!! And not a whole lot of anything else).
And off to Aurukun. Long dirt roads (little bits of bitumen every now and again), more long dirt roads. We came across a few interesting (and one might say stereotypical) things on the roads…a family in a crappy old 4WD spewing out oil from the back – Vit towed them to Coen (they wanted Aurukun, but that was around 300km away, a little far…); A couple who smashed their 4WD on the roads and had to head home on the back of a tow truck (holiday hiatus whilst getting that sorted out); and a young bull hit by a car with some nasty injuries that had to be put out of it’s misery. All in a couple of days driving.
Aurukun arrival was yesterday around lunchtime. We settled in (much needed shower – of course they are working on the water mains at the moment so not as fabulous as it could have been…that is with water!!!!!) The washing machine – never thought I’d be so glad to see one of those…
We went for a tour around town – met the local police and worked out to park the car in their lock down to keep the car thieves (back in town after a stint in local lock up for a few months apparently); met a few local folks – a older couple Hersey and Kenlocke, who are great friends of the Jawun team. We had them over for dinner tonight and heard lots of stories of their time whilst the McKenzies (the missionaries) ran the town. They are taking us fishing after work tomorrow. Live bait. Hmmm. I did say I would learn to fish!
Today, we visited the Aurukun Sewing Centre, and whilst waiting for our Balkanu boss to arrive, we help Jeanette at the Centre sew up a few curtains which they make for donga’s (accommodation made out of shipping containers)…Daniel took a little while to learn to sew a straight line, I took two goes at counting 8cm – yep, I know. We did a little unpicking of seams – but hopefully not more trouble than it was worth. We eventually made three curtains which can be sold locally. It’s a really well equipped centre.
Detailed brief on projects (we only have a few weeks and loads to do) today with Greg once he got here. Our key project is APN Cape York. Our key contact is delayed inCairns with car troubles so we have tomorrow to work on the other 6 or 7 projects - it all looks really promising.
Day two in Aurukun, now complete.
Appow! (Goodbye in Wik mungkan language which is the primary language here in Aurukun)
S
Have finally arrived in Aurukun and settled in at the Aurukun Guest House. It's run by the council and in a great spot across the road from the shop (there is only one) and for those who thought it would be rough and ready - quite the opposite. Very comfortable, very clean and it's all pretty good so far.
We were extremely happy to see a washing machine after three days in a swag, with red dust from head to toe. Add to that a day in a backpackers in
We left
We camped (in a swag - yes on the ground just covered in canvas!!!!) for the first night in a place called "Billy Boil". This belongs to traditional land owners who are the first family to build their own place with help from the organisation. It's going to be a gorgeous open plan place - miles from anywhere, but they cut all their own trees, cut their own timber and then build the house. It's part of an initiative called "Owner Builder" where the organisation assist with the loan of a timber saw mill (portable) and other stuff, and then the family and volunteers build the house. Doreen and Laurie Hart (brother and sister) let us use their half finished deck to sleep on (much nicer than the dusty ground)...Frankie and Robbie Deemal also kept us company for the evening and also entertained with a couple of guitars - and a few old favourites kept many belting out a tune late into the night.
From there, we headed for the Normanby Station, where the Harrigan family provided their amazing hospitality. Rose and Ron Harrigan and their family took us on a special outing to some old traditional sacred land, where there people lived for centuries. We heard many old stories, and really got to understand how important their customs and maintaining both these and their language is.
Pando Harrigan (son) and another member of their band The Roadtrippers (apparently very well known up here in the Cape - a bit Paul Kelly, a bit Midnight Oil and a little bit country) put on an outdoor performance for us - it was pretty hard to beat. And another night under the stars...
But wait, there's more. Up and organised early, we (remotely located folk) headed to Coen. The convoy now down to three cars. Two secondees (Westpacers too)
The Coen ladies headed back the next morning after a brekkie at the Archer River Roadhouse (we ate a lot of burgers on this trip – they all make good burgers!!!! And not a whole lot of anything else).
And off to Aurukun. Long dirt roads (little bits of bitumen every now and again), more long dirt roads. We came across a few interesting (and one might say stereotypical) things on the roads…a family in a crappy old 4WD spewing out oil from the back – Vit towed them to Coen (they wanted Aurukun, but that was around 300km away, a little far…); A couple who smashed their 4WD on the roads and had to head home on the back of a tow truck (holiday hiatus whilst getting that sorted out); and a young bull hit by a car with some nasty injuries that had to be put out of it’s misery. All in a couple of days driving.
Aurukun arrival was yesterday around lunchtime. We settled in (much needed shower – of course they are working on the water mains at the moment so not as fabulous as it could have been…that is with water!!!!!) The washing machine – never thought I’d be so glad to see one of those…
We went for a tour around town – met the local police and worked out to park the car in their lock down to keep the car thieves (back in town after a stint in local lock up for a few months apparently); met a few local folks – a older couple Hersey and Kenlocke, who are great friends of the Jawun team. We had them over for dinner tonight and heard lots of stories of their time whilst the McKenzies (the missionaries) ran the town. They are taking us fishing after work tomorrow. Live bait. Hmmm. I did say I would learn to fish!
Today, we visited the Aurukun Sewing Centre, and whilst waiting for our Balkanu boss to arrive, we help Jeanette at the Centre sew up a few curtains which they make for donga’s (accommodation made out of shipping containers)…Daniel took a little while to learn to sew a straight line, I took two goes at counting 8cm – yep, I know. We did a little unpicking of seams – but hopefully not more trouble than it was worth. We eventually made three curtains which can be sold locally. It’s a really well equipped centre.
Detailed brief on projects (we only have a few weeks and loads to do) today with Greg once he got here. Our key project is APN Cape York. Our key contact is delayed in
Day two in Aurukun, now complete.
Appow! (Goodbye in Wik mungkan language which is the primary language here in Aurukun)
S
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