Saturday, 24 September 2011

Most of the town came to watch

I'm sure, out of the 1000 people in Aurukun, the majority were there yesterday afternoon...All dressed in the House Opening colours - skirts for the ladies made locally (Daniel and I did a bit of sewing up at the Sewing Centre to get them all done), and the young man's (who's house was opened) favourite colour was blue.  His totem, the hammer head shart (Thoyo) and clan details all printed on the shirts.  It looked incredible to see a sea of blue around the crowd...

Aunty Hersey with her grandson

Hersey, also a great fisherwoman, showed us the finer points of casting a line (which I still have yet to master).

Kenlock and his grandson

Kenlock showed us how to fish when we first got here...

Aurukun men with their ceremonial dress

Local boy ready to start dancing

A special local tradition - House Opening in Aurukun

First, it's worth explaining what little I know of the cultural side of the House Opening.  We had been told how lucky we were to have a House Opening happening whilst we were here, and to make sure we went along.  How right everyone was.

When a person dies in Aurukun, the family close the house they lived in, for anywhere between 6 months to 3 years.  Everything they touched is removed (I think) and replaced eventually, and no one enters the house during that time.  The last place they visited is also off limits - shown by boundaries of pink string etc if it's land.  therefore, we were told, if there is pink or coloured rope/string around, don't go into that area. 

Also, they do not speak that persons name until they have the 'name ceremony' which allows their name to spoken.  Interestingly, this applies to anyone else in the community with the same or similar sounding name.  You must use the name "Tarpitch" when referring to anyone of that name.  If you have that name you become "Tarpitch Blah Blah". Even on school assignments or forms that need to be filled out etc. 

So a House Opening is a big celebration, re-opening the house of the person that passed away, the house is decorated, people wear special clothing, and there is dancing and feasting and ceremonies. It frees their spirit to move on. This house opening was particularly sad due to the age of the person - he was a young 18 year old boy killed in a car accident on his way home here (he was a boarder at school in Brisbane).  And, his school mates are all staying here in the guesthouse for the event. 

Logistically, I had heard it started at 3, or 2, or 4 or 5pm.  We got there at 3, just to be sure.  Preparation was all still happening.  Decorations were being finalised on the outside, balloons and streamers going up.  The house looked amazing. 

A pit was dug for the "kup maurie" - a fire pit to roast all the food (they killed a bullock, a wild boar, sea turtles and a dugong for the meal).  This is slow cooking method, where they have a pit. hot fire ashes and then put the food in - cover it up and let it cook.  I reckon it was after 4pm when it started.

The local dancers were amazing.  There were all different types of traditional dance and costumes, from painted bodies and grass skirts to hula from the islanders.  And everything in between.  There are very specific rituals and dances that are only performed at House Openings.  I only wish I could understand the language to know each ones significance and meaning.

What a privilege to be able to be able to be sit on the sidelines and just watch.  It's not like it's a tourist performance, these are local normal ceremonies. An huge amount of effort goes into the dancing and the costumes.  Needless to say, I have lots of video, but may just go with a few photo's here.

It was a really moving event.  Hopefully a tradition they can keep going in the future, as they have until now.

Beautiful decorations on and around the house.

Appow

Thursday, 22 September 2011

Quiet week so far

Since we got back from the tip on Sunday evening, it's been just work.  No fishing - the car gets locked in the police yard to keep teenagers away from the temptation of breaking in and just doing some fun damage!

We had the elderly local couple for dinner last night, the pancakes are really the big hit. We heard some great stories and enjoyed catching up (they are the ones who take us fishing and laugh at how bad the casting is).

Only three more working days here in Aurukun.  Working to get the Tourism Plan complete, for first draft review.  That way, will have enough time for any revisions or additions.  Most likely to be subtractions though, it's become a monster - think it's 60 pages now.  Time to cull one thinks. 

Well, how do you write a master plan for a tourism venture, for over 750,000 hectares of land, and as yet no tourists.  Not sure there are any amenities out there yet, and no accommodation at this point.   So, it's starting from scratch.  And, no one in Aurukun has any tourism experience.  So, the plan has grown a little more than I expected, thank goodness for the old Executive Summary. 

It's been really interesting researching it, finding all about wild boar shooting, and not to mention those who like to holiday with a crossbow in hand, stalking scrub bulls.  Sounds like just the holiday - think those are specialist options.  I like the idea of a spot of barra fishing (not a convert necessarily, but it can be fun for an hour or so), and up here they have "May At" - or Sugar Bag honey.  It's gathered from the wild bees (that don't have stingers!!!!!) and apparently has more medicinal qualities than the old yesterdays-news New Zealand manuka honey.  Go the Aurukun bees...

So, what kind of adventure holiday would I design for me?  Surely some of the May At.  I'd like to try the weaving, Aurukun women are renown for their weaving.  I'm looking forward to seeing the baskets on Saturday at the House Opening, where they traditionally decorate.  I'd do a spot of fishing for sure.
And touring the waterways, Aurukun is at the confluence of three major rivers so it's a very water focused community.  They eat a lot of fish that they catch themselves, catfish, barramundi, queenfish, bream, um and some others I forget.  I'd go for a damper making masterchef extravaganza for sure.  Love a bit of damper made in the fire.  So good.  We are going out damper making with Hersey and Kenlock hopefully before we go next week.  The stories are worth hearing too - Cape Keerweer, were the Dutch landed (apparently first Europeans to set foot in or on the country).  Of course, behaved as sailors did a few centuries ago and were chased off by the local guys, for good reason by all accounts.   There is also the volunteer stuff, GPSing the turtle nests in season, or finding, GPSing and cleaning up the Ghostnets - now there's something worth doing.

So, hopefully one day, I'll see all manner of tours of the Wik lands available one day and may just have to fly back and try one out.  It's a bit of a way off yet, they have the cattle plan to start with, and the town needs some more accommodation, which is all coming. 

That's all the fun and games for this week.  Daniel and I have played a bit of basketball after work but not a lot of exercise to be had - 34 degrees today. hmmmm.  Coffee detox has gone well, at least no latte bingeing being done. 

Sad we are heading into the final week, it's flown.  Although, will be happy to get home and not wear the same clothes for weeks on end.

Appow
S